Moose Factory / Moosonee

February 24, 2025 

Roger picked me up at home a bit after 8:00 am.  The weather wasn’t great and deteriorated quickly.  By the time we were on Highway 144 heading north toward Timmins, we were becoming concerned about how much worse things might become. 

As it turned out, however, the snow was off and on, and we had many good sections along the drive. 

The beginning of the trip was old hat to me.  I’d been on 144 more times than I could count.  Timmins, and indeed the road north from Timmins to Highway 11 held little mystery for me.  When we turned north off Highway 11 near Smooth Rock Falls it was now all new to me and this is where, for me, it all began. 

Route 634 was like most roads in Northern Ontario.  Many kilometres of precious little, but lots of side roads, logging roads, trails, etc. begging to be explored.  After some time, we turned right onto the Abitibi Canyon Road and soon after, we were crossing the Abitibi River on the hydro-electric dam.  The canyon on the north side of the dam was much deeper than I expected, and the reservoir to the south looked like the end of a beautiful lake.  We stopped to take a few pictures, but by this time, we were racing the sun, the clock and the snow which had begun again in earnest.

 It seemed like no time at all before we arrived at the part of the drive I was most interested in; the winter road that would take us the rest of the way to Moose Factory.  Just before reaching the hydro-electric dam at Otter Rapids, we turned right onto the winter road which, during the summer is just a clearing of trees running through swamp. 

As we drove the road, it started out rough, with roots and twigs showing up through the layer of snow and ice.  Conditions were clearly not ideal for this end of the road.  The bumps kept our speed low, but before long conditions improved and we began to make better time. 

Along the way, there were creek and river crossings, but the light was fading quickly.  Between that and the snow, I decided I would hold off on video or photos until the drive back.

 Before I knew it, shortly after watching an arctic fox run across the road in front of us, we were descending the east bank of the Moose River onto the ice.  We followed the ploughed road southwest, parallelling the bank before turning west to the island community of Moose Factory.  Upon arrival, we stopped at a checkpoint where our names were taken, along with our license plate number before proceeding. 

We soon arrived at the home of our hosts, Abel and Betty.  A wonderful dinner of caribou and dumplings was waiting for us, despite our late arrival.  I’d never had caribou before, but it was very good!  We talked for quite a while before eventually deciding to go to bed after a long day. 

 

February 25, 2025 

We were up and getting ready for our day early.  Roger had been contracted to attend a career-day at the Northern Lights Secondary School in Moosonee. 

We drove off the west side of the island and crossed the other half of the Moose River to Moosonee.  Roger showed me what was clearly a ritual for many working people in the community; a stop at the Two Bay Garage for coffee and breakfast sandwiches. 

I helped Roger get set up a little bit and set out to see what other organizations were recruiting here today.  The Canadian Armed Forces, Ontario Power Generation, and Ornge Air Ambulance were all represented as well as multiple post-secondary education institutions.

I watched the kids filter through, papers and collected swag in hand, and I wondered...  Would anything they see here today alter the course of their lives?  The amount of potential in that gymnasium was palpable.  The lack of confidence I saw in many eyes was, of course, a sign of their age, but somehow more... 

I took some time to walk from the school to the location of the former CFS Moosonee radar site.  It was part of the Pinetree Line, and I was hoping to get a good look at it.  Unfortunately, it was clearly sealed up tight, and I couldn’t fly my drone for additional photos or video because I was too close to the airport.

 The lunch at the school was quite good and I did my best to help Roger’s recruitment effort until we were finished for the day.  Roger took some time to drive me around the two communities to show me where everything was and filled me in with some stories from his past here.  Eventually, we returned to spend the evening with Abel and Betty, discussing some of the important matters of the day, including hockey. 

 

February 26, 2025 

We returned to Two Bays for breakfast and prepared for another day of recruiting, this time at the Delores S. Echum Composite School in Moose Factory.  After Roger was set up, I promptly took off with his truck to see the sights.  Many locations were places I’d already visited with Roger, but I was taking more time now to take pictures, record video and get a feel for them.  This included the site of the old Hudson Bay trading post, and the Weeneebayko General Hospital, now nearing 80-years old.  Watching daily life unfold around me as I drove, I could see a spirit to the people I hadn’t anticipated. 

I returned to the school.  The recruiters were mostly the same as yesterday, and I was beginning to recognize them.  I met two men tasked with addressing the community’s drug issues and enjoyed a lengthy discussion with them later that afternoon.  I was impressed by the unique approach they're taking to dealing with a problem that plagues almost every community.  They are writing an entirely new book on the issue.

As my last day in Moose Factory and Moosonee was drawing to a close, I was already reflecting on my visit overall, and everything I’d learned since arriving, and it was a lot. 

I learned history, not just from a colonial perspective, but from the eyes of a once proud, now uncertain people.  I met many people who welcomed me openly and without reservation, even into their home.  There was a feeling of community and closeness that I haven’t found in many other places.  Shared history, shared environment, shared hardships, shared tragedies but also shared triumphs and joys. 

 

February 27, 2025 

We set out early in the morning for the long drive back.  As the weather was better than when we arrived, Roger indulged me and I had the opportunity to record our drive across the river, and highlights of our drive back.  Having almost crashed my drone in the cold wind and snow, I realized my luck was running out.

I would like to go back.  The winter road also continues beyond Moosonee to other Cree communities along the James Bay coast.  Perhaps I’ll have the opportunity to visit them too. 

I am indebted to Roger for showing me his community, introducing me to everyone, and generally being an amazing guide. 

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