After a pleasant conversation, I got out of the Uber I had taken from my hotel in San Antonio. It was a beautiful sunny day as I walked toward the crumbling walls of what I presumed must have been an impressive structure. I had no idea what to expect as I'd never visited a Spanish Mission before. Two days prior, I had walked some of the grounds of the Alamo, but the huge number of tourists, and lengthy lineup deterred me from actually entering.
As I entered the complex, the most noticable feature was, of course, the bare outlines of the former mission. One could see where the outer walls once stood, and one got a vague sense as to how others must have lived along the inside of these walls, probably sharing in their protection. I was struck by the relative quiet, and tiny number of tourists milling about the grounds.
Mission San Francisco de la Espada, also known as Mission Espada, is a historic Roman Rite Catholic mission in San Antonio, Texas. Its history spans from its founding in the 17th century to its current status as part of a National Historical Park.
The mission was originally established in 1690 as San Francisco de los Tejas near Weches, Texas. It was founded to convert local Native Americans to Christianity and to solidify Spanish territorial claims in the New World. After facing challenges such as a smallpox epidemic and hostilities with the local Nabedache tribe, the mission was relocated several times before finally settling in San Antonio in 17311.
Many of my fellow visitors walked near the front door of the chapel, but never opened it. I, on the other hand, instantly tried the door and was pleasantly rewarded. Upon walking inside, it was like walking back in time. Very well restored, and clearly still used and loved, this chapel wore its history well.
Having seen what I could there, I went back outside and moved along the wall that featured a shady overhang. I'm sure this must have been a popular place during the extreme Texas heat.
In its final location, the mission complex was developed, including the construction of a friary in 1745 and the completion of the church in 1756. The mission served as a center for teaching trades and skills to the Indigenous population, which were essential for the community’s sustainability.
During the Texas revolution, the mission was used by figures such as James Bowie, William Travis, and the Texas army as a stronghold against Mexican forces.
After the conflict was over, the site was largely abandoned until 1858 when Franciscan Father Francis Bouche began efforts to rebuild, largely using his own funds. Â The convent was rebuilt was rebuilt as his residence, and from then until his death in 1907, a general store was built, the chapel was repaired and many of the collapsed buildings had been restored.
The mission was closed after his death but reopened in 1915.  Repairs and alterations continued in one form or another until the 1950’s.  In 1975, it became part of a National Park and was later designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015, recognizing its cultural significance and historical value.
